How to Pick Your Bow:
When you order your new Bow, you have some decisions to make.
1. WHAT BOW DO YOU WANT?
There are different kind of bows out there; you have traditional, recurve,
compound or crossbows. Each of these have different models for different uses.
Most types have Target or Hunting bows.
You can do target archery or competitions with a hunting bow but to use a target bow with al it’s visible colours for hunting is a challenge.
With new competition legislation you are not allowed to used a camo hunting bow in a competition, Black or any other colour is allowed...
I suggest researching the following points out before making a choice:
1. Which bow do you want…(Traditional/Recurve, Compound, Crossbow or Airbow)
2. What style of shooting do you like…(Traditional/Recurve, Compound)
3. You going into target archery or hunting…
4. What is your draw length...(Longer draw legths have limited options)
4. What would you like to spend….
This is very important because it will limit some of your choices already....
Most archers starting out get used to their first bow and from then on don’t want to shoot any other make or brand.
So be objective and don't make your decision based on what "you’ve heard".
I’d say look at what you can afford and choose the one that intrigues you the most.
If you are not going to absolutely love the bow, you are not going to enjoy shooting it.
2. DO YOU NEED A RIGHT-HAND OR LEFT-HAND BOW?
If you choose to take a Traditional/Recurve or Compound Bow then you need to know if a Right Handed or Left Handed Bow will suite you.
A right-handed person generally shoots a right-hand bow. A left-handed person generally shoots a left-hand bow.
That's simple enough, but if you've never shot a bow before, you could easily misunderstand how bows are oriented for the right or left hand.
A Right-Hand bow is actually held in the left hand and drawn back with the right hand. Conversely, a Left-Hand bow is held in the right hand and drawn back with the left hand. You choose the orientation of the bow based on the hand that draws the bow - not the hand that grips the bow.
Although it pains us to complicate a seemingly simple matter, you should know that some shooters choose their bows (right or left hand) based on eye-dominance rather than hand-dominance. This is the eye that is predominantly used to sight with.
3. WHAT DRAW WEIGHT WOULD YOU LIKE?
When you order your bow, you'll need to decide what draw weight your bow should be.
Generally a bow's limbs come in 10 lb increments.
Some bows have more choices than others, but for a typical bow -
you'll be asked to choose between 40-50#, 50-60#, or 60-70# limbs when ordering the bow.
If you choose 50-60# limbs, for example, the bow can be adjusted for any draw weight within that 10# range.
However, it cannot be adjusted to say, 65#, or any other value outside of the 10# range.
If you decide later that you want a draw weight that's higher or lower than the range you originally chose,
your bow will need to have new limbs installed.
If you've never shot a bow before - and you're unsure which weight range is suitable for you - For quick reference, here are some general guidelines for choosing an appropriate draw weight based on body type. Of course, each individual is different. You should apply your common sense here and interpret this chart with due respect to your own age, general physical condition, and Body Mass Index (BMI).
Very Small Child (55-70 lbs.)10-15 lbs.
Small Child (70-100 lbs.)15-25 lbs.
Larger Child (100-130 lbs.)25-35 lbs.
Athletic Older Child (Boys 130-150 lbs.)40-50 lbs.
Small Frame Women (100-130 lbs.)20-30 lbs.
Medium Frame Women (130-160 lbs.)25-35 lbs.
Larger Frame Women (160+ lbs.)35-45 lbs.
Small Frame Men (120-150 lbs.)45-55 lbs.
Medium Frame Men (150-180 lbs.)55-65 lbs.
Large Frame Men (180+ lbs.)65-80 lbs.
When we setup and tune your bow, we will adjust it for the precise draw weight you need.
Some shooters prefer to begin low and work-up to a heavier draw weight later.
Some max-it-out right from the start. Some setup for something in the middle of the range. The choice is totally up to you.
Of course, all compound bows are user-adjustable for draw weight. Some bows can be adjusted from 10-70#, so the bow can grow with you if you are a youngster, no need for extra limbs.
If you decide to increase or decrease your draw weight later, you can typically do that yourself with just a hex-wrench.
Just remember, you cannot safely adjust the bow outside of its specified weight range.
The draw weight for Crossbows are simpler, you can choose a higher draw weight than normal bows, and there are pulley cocking aids to help you in this regard, they still need some brawn to be able to pull them to the safety catch position.
4. WHAT DRAW LENGTH DO YOU NEED?
If you already know your draw length, this is an easy one.
If you need some help, here's a reliable measurement method we have utilized for some time now... the old Armspan/2.5 method.
To measure your draw length, determine the length of your arm-span in inches.
Stand with your arms out and palms facing forward. Don't stretch when measuring.
Just stand naturally. Have someone else help you, and measure from the tip of one middle finger to the other. Then simply divide that number by 2.5, this is your approximate draw length (in inches) for your body size.
If in doubt, or if you're between sizes, choose a shorter draw length rather than longer one. Shooting a longer draw length often results in poor shooting form, inaccuracy, and even painful string slap on the forearm. You will better enjoy and be more successful with a somewhat conservative draw length.
In the case of Crossbows they come standard in a certain length and you need not worry about the draw cycle, you shoot it like a rifle.
Please contact me if you have questions or not sure what to choose...
Consistency Hinges on Correct Draw Length
Anchor Point 2
String Touching the Nose
Anchor Point 1
Thumb or Knuckles
on the Jaw Bone
Focus on the Target not your Trigger Finger
Not Squeezing the Grip, Bow Resting in your Hand