Final Tuning:

 FletchinFFflTHE "KITCHEN SINK" METHOD

 

This Method Checks:

a) Draw Length Setting

b) Arrow Rest Centre Shot Position

c) Sight Pins Windage Position

d) Top Cam/Top Axle Levelling (fix/check sideways nock travel).

 

STEP 1

Hang a spool of string or any string with a weight on the end, in front of a target.

Step back 5 feet.

Fire a fletched arrow at the string.

Tweak the sight pins windage a bit left...a bit right, until the fletched arrow touches or even split the string material.

You should get this result.

Then, you go to the next stage.

Step back 5 feet, and try again with a bare shaft (arrow with no vanes).

You should get this result.

If you are a right handed shooter and the bare shaft misses to the right of the string...

 

STEP 2

Press your bow and shorten the left side buss cable leg say 1 complete twistand lengthen the right side buss cable leg say 1 complete twist and fire a bare shaft again at the hanging string in front of the target...

The bare shaft point of impact should move closer to the string...

Repeat the shortening of the left side buss cable leg with another complete twist (Add) and repeat the lengthening of the right side buss cable leg with another complete twist (Remove)

 

STEP 3

If the bare shaft point of impact does not move closer to the string...

If the bare shaft point of impact does not change...

If the bare shaft point of impact stays off to the right...

 

Then you have a Draw Length Problem....ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION!

Because your elbow is too far back, your elbow is behind your head instead of directly behind the arrow (in line behind the arrow).

When your elbow is behind your head, your release forearm is pointed off to the right and your release forearm pulls the bowstring sideways to the left. (Famous Left Paper Tear for right handed shooters)

The bare shaft goes where ever your forearm is pointed and the bare shaft misses sideways to the right of the string.

 

STEP 4

Shorten the bow draw length setting.

Now, you might need to shorten the bow draw length setting a complete 1/2 inch (new module) or only 1/8th inch....maybe only 1/4-inch.

 

HOW do you shorten a bow draw length setting in-between module sizes?...less than 1/2-inch?

 

Find the bottom of the buss cable (cable with 3 end loops) and remove a couple of twists to increase ATA (Axle to Axle length) and the bow draw length will shorten.

As you continue to untwist the buss cable, the ATA continues to grow and the bow draw length will continue to shorten.

Keep tweaking the buss cable until the bare shaft hits the string...

Stay at 5 feet and fire fletched arrows at the string then fire bare shaft arrows at the string until both fletched and bare shaft hit the string.

When firing fletched arrows at the string (tweak the sight pins windage) to adjust.

When firing bare shafts at the string...work the buss cable as in step 4 (bottom of the buss cable to make large adjustments for point of impact....missing right by inches)

When firing bare shafts at the string...work the buss cable legs as in step 2 (shorten left side leg when missing right of the string by tiny amounts if you are a right hand shooter).

Soon, your fletched arrows and bare shafts will be touching the string.

 

STEP 5 

MODIFIED FRENCH TUNING

 

Go to any convenient longer distance...anything longer than 5 feet.

Might be 10 feet, 19 feet, 14 yards, 20 yards or 60 yards of course the longer the better, but even 19 feet is better than nothing. Whatever long distance is available to you.

Fire fletched arrow groups at a bull’s eye, only adjust the arrow rest.

The goal is to get the arrow groups centred around the bull’s eye.

Arrow group missing to the left of the bull’s eye, move your arrow rest slightly right.

Arrow group missing to the right of the bull’s eye, move your arrow rest slightly left.

Tweak the arrow rest to get the arrow group centred on the long distance bull’s eye.

 

STEP 6

Repeat shooting the fletched arrow at the string at 5 feet.

We want to touch or split the string.

You might need to micro adjust the sight pins windage...this is a fine tuning adjustment.

Be Picky.

Each adjustment you make, you get a tiny bit closer to perfect.

Repeat STEP 6 again.

Repeat STEP 5 again.

Repeat STEP 6 again.

Repeat STEP 5 again.

Repeat STEP 6 again.

Repeat STEP 5 again.

You get the idea.

 

You decide how many cycles you want to try.

Each cycle is smaller and smaller adjustments.

The more cycles you do the tighter your groups will be.

 

 

The final step:

 

CREEP TUNING

 

Creep tuning is where we fix vertical misses.

Take a strip of duct tape and stick it horizontally on your target butt.

Stand about 20 yards away from your target.

Aim at the top edge.

Shoot 3 arrows at the top edge of the duct tape, with normal pulling pressure.

Then shoot 3 more arrows at the top edge of the duct tape, but this time with harder than normal pulling pressure.

3 Arrows hit lower, 3 Arrows hit higher.

This means that the cam starting rotation position is not in the sweet spot.

You have to find the sweet spot for cam starting rotation position that provides up with level nock travel....which is fancy lingo for finding the cam starting rotation position (that provides us with the flattest arrow groups) with the minimum amount of vertical misses.

 

You have two choices:

You can make the cam rotate towards the riser,

You can make the cam rotate away from the riser....

 

One of these directions (Add or Remove half a twist) will get your arrows closer to the top edge of the duct tape.

 

SINGLE CAM BOW...

 

Find the cable with 3 end loops

(Sometimes called the Buss cable)

(Sometimes called the Yoke cable)

(Sometimes called the "Y" cable)

 

Find the bottom end loop and try adding a half twist or a complete twist and see what happens.

If things got better, then adding half twists is what you want to do until you get all 6 arrows hitting at the same height above the top edge of the duct tape.

If things got worse, then go the other direction, removing half twists until you get all 6 arrows hitting at the same height above the top edge of the duct tape.

 

HYBRID CAM BOWS....

 

This is a bow with a 3 piece rigging system.

You have a buss cable (cable with 3 end loops)

You have a control cable (cable with 2 end loops)

You have a bowstring.

 

When CREEP TUNING a hybrid cam bow.

You could use the same procedure as the single cam bow and only adjust the buss cable.

I prefer to use the control cable for creep tuning, because this way, there is less effect on the draw length…

When adding or removing the half twist adjustmentsto try and get all 6 arrows to hit at the same height above the top edge of the duct tape.

Tweaking the control cable is a direct adjustment to the top cam rotation position on a hybrid cam system, because the top end of the control cable is attached to a peg on the Top Cam.

Tweaking the buss cable is an in-direct adjustment to the top cam rotation position on a hybrid cam system, because the buss cable only changes the ATA...which in-directly causes the top cam to rotate one way or the other way.

 

If you shoot a binary cam bow with NO YOKE cables, if your broad heads are hitting right of your field points.

The only way to adjust is to shorten the draw length, to get the release side forearm more in line, directly behind the arrow to reduce sideways pull on the bowstring down to zero.

 

A combination of moving your arrow rest a Skosh to the right, shortening the d-loop length and taking twists out of the two cables to increase ATA, which reduces brace height will help you dial in your broad head point of impact with your field points.

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